Dunkirk’s dunes, World War 2 site of the largest troop evacuation ever, now play host to yachting and surfing. Relive the drama at the war museum, or marvel at the magnificent square–rigger at the family-friendly port museum. Visit LAAC, for a garden setting of modern art and sculptures. Sample fine Flemish fare at the harbourside restaurants. Then shop for local delicacies, pausing for a bite from privateer Jean Bart’s fingers – a creamy biscuit covered in crunchy milk chocolate.